Two adults, one 9-year-old, five cities, zero tour guides. Here’s how we built the trip of a lifetime during cherry blossom season — and how you can too.
Why DIY?
We’d seen the guided Japan tours: 8 days, $5,000 per person, herded between highlights on someone else’s schedule. We wanted something different — a trip shaped around our family. We opted for an itinerary beyond the “golden triangle” to get a better taste of real Japan, one that included all the major highlights but also picnics in the park under the blooming trees, a hike to the waterfall through cedar groves, serene and uncrowded shrines, as well as meeting some local wildlife. We wanted to go at our own pace and stop to smell the sakura blooms.
So we planned it ourselves. Two weeks. Five cities. Bullet trains, a rental car, a ryokan with a traditional Japanese kaiseki dinner, an onsen stay, a visit to the snow monkey park, and a day at Universal Studios in Mario cosplay to celebrate our son’s 10th birthday.
The Route
Tokyo → Mt. Fuji → Kyoto → Kanazawa → Shibu Onsen → Tokyo
| Dates | City | Nights | Hotel | Why |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mar 25-28 | Tokyo | 3 | OMO5 Tokyo Otsuka | Arrive, decompress, explore |
| Mar 28-30 | Kawaguchiko | 2 | Lakeland Hotel Mizunosato | Mt. Fuji, shrines, road trip |
| Mar 30-Apr 2 | Kyoto | 3 | Wayfarer Hotel Kyoto Shijo | Temples, cherry blossoms, USJ day trip |
| Apr 2-4 | Kanazawa | 2 | Hotel Resol Kanazawa | Gardens, seafood, gold leaf |
| Apr 4-5 | Shibu Onsen | 1 | Kanaguya Ryokan | Ryokan, hot springs, snow monkeys |
| Apr 5-7 | Tokyo (Shibuya) | 2 | Shibuya Tobu Hotel | Birthday shenanigans, sushi making class, shopping |
This loop worked beautifully. Every train ride was under two hours including one bus leg.
Tokyo: Hit the Ground Running
We opened with Meiji Shrine and Yoyogi Park — a deliberate slow start before throwing ourselves at the neon. The forested path into Meiji feels like stepping out of the city entirely, and Yoyogi next door is pure people-watching: dog meetups, rockabilly dancers, families picnicking.
From there we walked Takeshita Street for our son’s first dose of Harajuku chaos — crepe shops, plush everything, and walls of gachapon machines dispensing capsule toys for a few hundred yen a pop (warning: bring a lot of 100-yen coins). We’d circled Afuri Ramen for lunch, but the line was a two-hour wait. Plan B turned out better: Oreryu Shio Ramen Harajuku, a tiny 12-seat counter a few blocks away where you order at an old-school vending machine and hand your ticket to the chef. One of the best bowls of the trip.
We capped the day at Shibuya Crossing, watching the scramble from Share Lounge — the Tsutaya lounge above the Starbucks. Pay for entry, get unlimited drinks and snacks, and an unbeatable view of that famous wave of humanity.
Tip: Do Shibuya First
Your adrenaline is high when you land. Use it and opt to stay in the bustling Shibuya district when you arrive. The famous Shibuya Scramble , the views atop Shibuya Sky observation deck, Don Quijote’s seven floors of madness, Tower records (paradise for music lovers), the neon buzz and all the bustle — it all hits different when you’re still wide-eyed from arrival. We saved fully experiencing Shibuya for the end of the trip, and while it was still great, we wished we’d stay here when we first arrived.
The Pig Cafe Was Fun, But…
We booked the mini pig cafe in Harajuku because we’re allergic to cats. The pigs were genuinely sweet, clean and even potty trained and our son loved it. But if your family can do cats, go for a cat cafe instead — they’re more interactive and cuddly. You might also try out a Capybara, Otter, and even Owl cafe for some unique options.
Don’t Miss teamLab Planets
This was a top-3 moment of the trip. You wade barefoot through knee-deep water surrounded by digital art installations and the life orchid garden will take your breath away. Book your tickets early — morning slots are less crowded and give you time to explore Toyosu Fish Market afterward and grab lunch at one of the many open market vendors across the street. We each enjoyed a wide selection of street food and even a live Samurai show during our lunch there.
Pro tip: Visit the famous Toyosu Market tuna auction early in the morning to witness one of the most iconic spectacles in Japan. Here massive bluefin tunas are bought and sold at a high-speed, high-stakes auction. Tickets are available via lottery on the market website.
Ueno Park & Akihabara
After teamLab we headed to Ueno Park for a picnic under the cherry blossoms enjoying some street bites, we felt like the locals. We spent the afternoon in Akihabara. If you have a kid who’s into gaming, anime or Pokemon this is the place to be. Retro Game Camp, arcades at GiGO and a massive Pokemon trading center are all here. Dizzy from a big day we headed to our hotel in the quieter residential area at Otsuka station (conveniently located on the Yamanote line!).
Alternative plan: consider renting one of the iconic swan-shaped boats on the lake at Ueno park and enjoy a chiller afternoon instead of continuing on to Akihabara.
Mt. Fuji: Rent a Car, See Everything
We rented a car for the Mt. Fuji leg and it was the right call. The lake district is spread out and public transit is slow and crowded. Two days with a car let us hit Chureito Pagoda before the bus crowds arrive, followed by a visit to the serene Kawaguchi Asama shrine located off the beaten path, where we hiked through a cedar grove up to the Haha-no-Shirataki waterfall. It was a perfect reprieve that we all needed after the busy Tokyo.
For lunch we queued up for the well known local lunch spot at Houtou Fudou. Here staff yell greetings to the patrons and hustle delivering piping hot pots filled with their famous (but secret) ramen recipe. Fun atmosphere, delicious food! We followed with a visit to the ice caves.
Stay in a traditional Japanese ryokan at least once. Ryokans are inns built around a hot spring (onsen) where the rate includes a multi-course kaiseki dinner and breakfast — seasonal, locally-sourced, and plated like art. Rooms have tatami mat floors, futons rolled out at night, and yukata robes laid out for you. It is a must-do experience in Japan. For this leg we picked a lakeside ryokan-style onsen hotel on Lake Kawaguchiko, with Mt. Fuji views from the bath.
Rental tip: Book through Toyota Rent-a-Car. You’ll need an International Driving Permit (get it at AAA before your trip). The car came with English GPS, winter tires, and an ETC card for toll roads. Cost us about $170 for two days.
Kyoto: Temples, Food, and the Best Day of the Trip
Fushimi Inari at Dawn
Get there by 7 AM. We cannot stress this enough. By 10 AM the famous torii gate tunnels are shoulder-to-shoulder tourists. At dawn, it’s just you and the mountain. The light filtering through thousands of vermillion gates is a magical sight. The hike to the top takes about 45-60 minutes and its well worth it.
Kiyomizu-dera temple, sloping streets of Sannenzaka, Maruyama Park, geisha Gion district
This day was our favorite of the trip and it flows nicely with the entire route being totally walkable.
Start the morning at Kiyomizu-dera, perched on a hillside above the city. Get there early — by 9 AM the wooden veranda is packed, but at opening it’s quiet and the views over Kyoto are stunning. Don’t skip the Otowa Waterfall at the back, where you drink from one of three streams (each grants a different blessing).
From the temple, wander down the sloping cobblestone streets of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka. This is the Kyoto of postcards: wooden shopfronts, lantern-lit signage, kimono rental shops on every corner. Stop into the tea houses and try yatsuhashi, Kyoto’s signature cinnamon-and-sweet-bean confection. Free samples in nearly every shop, and the fresh (unbaked) version is a revelation.
Continue down to Maruyama Park, home to Kyoto’s oldest weeping cherry tree — a 200+ year old specimen lit up at night during sakura season. The park itself is a perfect picnic spot under the blossoms.
End the day in Gion, the historic geisha district. Walk Hanamikoji Street at dusk and you may glimpse a geiko or maiko hurrying to an evening engagement. Be respectful — locals are tired of tourists treating them like a photo op — but the atmosphere here at twilight is unmatched.
Why We Skipped Nara
Most guides treat a day trip to Nara as a must-do from Kyoto. We didn’t. The famous Nara deer photograph beautifully on Instagram, but in person they’re dirty, aggressive, and have learned tourists carry food — they will headbutt, nip, and chase you down for a cracker. With a 9-year-old, the novelty wears off fast.
If you’ve got an extra day, consider a food tour in Osaka instead — same direction as Nara, an even shorter train ride, and Dotonbori delivers in a way Nara can’t. Or do what we did and use the day for Universal Studios Japan (covered above).
The Extra Day in Kyoto We Wish We’d Had
Three nights in Kyoto wasn’t enough. If you can spare a fourth, here’s how we’d spend it:
- Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) in the morning — the gold-leafed temple reflecting on a still pond is one of the most photographed images in Japan, and there’s a reason. Go early; it’s small and gets crowded fast.
- Philosopher’s Path at midday — a ~2 km canal-side walk lined with cherry trees, connecting Ginkaku-ji (the silver pavilion) to the Nanzen-ji temple area. Pure stroll-and-think energy, plus great little cafes and shops along the way.
- Arashiyama Bamboo Grove in the afternoon — the towering green corridor everyone has seen on Instagram. It’s smaller and shorter than photos suggest, so pair it with the surrounding district: the iconic Togetsukyo Bridge and a stop at Tenryu-ji temple’s gardens.
- Nishiki Market for dinner — the 400-year-old “Kyoto’s Kitchen,” a covered five-block arcade of food stalls and specialty shops. Graze your way through skewers, pickles, fresh tofu, mochi, and matcha everything.
USJ: Worth the Day Trip
Universal Studios Japan is about 50 minutes by train from Kyoto. We bought Express Passes and they were 100% worth the splurge — Super Nintendo World without a 2-hour wait is a gift. Download the USJ app beforehand and register your tickets.
Kanazawa: The Underrated Gem
Most tourists skip Kanazawa. Don’t. Kenroku-en is one of Japan’s top three gardens and Kanazawa castle as well as Samurai district are also worth the visit. The Omicho Market rivals Nishiki and Toyosu for fresh seafood, and it’s far less crowded. The whole vibe of Kanazawa is a lot more relaxed and laid back, and the sushi is amazing here. Must reserve at the tiny family owned sushi spot Kourin, which serves up the freshest fish at a great value!
The Higashi Chaya geisha district is beautiful for an evening stroll, and the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art has a free permanent exhibit that kids actually enjoy.
Shibu Onsen: The Night You’ll Never Forget
This was the emotional peak of the trip. Shibu Onsen is a tiny hot spring village in the mountains of Nagano. Our ryokan, Kanaguya, is a historic 250 year old inn with deep history and thoughtfully decorated rooms. Following the multi-course kaiseki dinner, and wearing our yukatas and wooden geta sandals we walked the cobblestone streets with a paper lantern, stamping our way through the nine public bathhouses. In addition, Kanaguya Ryokan has its own 8 onsens, some divided by gender and a handful of private onsens.
Our son carrying that lantern through the steam and the dark, wooden buildings glowing around us — that’s the image I’ll keep forever.
Practical notes:
• Kanaguya has a strict 3:00-4:00 PM check-in window. Plan your train accordingly or go see the snow monkeys before check-in.
• The ryokan includes dinner and breakfast. The kaiseki dinner alone is worth the stay.
Prepare to sleep in traditional japanese style on tatami mats and removing your shoes as you enter the inn
• The nine-bathhouse stamp pilgrimage (“Kyu-to Meguri”) is free for ryokan guests.
Snow Monkeys
Before checkin time we visited Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park — a short bus ride from the onsen village and a 30-minute forest trail walk to wild macaques bathing in natural hot springs. Our favorite was watching the babies play and chase one another right next to us.
Back to Tokyo: Birthday & Final Days
Senso-ji & Cherry Blossoms
Sushi Making Class
We took a sushi-making class near Asakusa and it was a hit with the whole family. You make nine pieces of beautiful temari sushi and a maki roll, and walk away feeling like a chef. Great activity for families — book through Klook.
Our son turned 10 on April 5th. We spent his birthday at Nintendo Tokyo and Pokémon Center in Shibuya PARCO, followed by arcades and claw machines at the Taito Station and dinner at one of the viral ramen stops Ichiban. He said it was “the best birthday ever.” Mission accomplished.
Practical Tips: What We Learned
Trains Are Easier Than You Think
The Japanese train system looks intimidating on paper. Different companies, different apps, reserved vs. unreserved seats, shinkansen vs. local lines. But here’s the truth: Google Maps handles almost all of it. Plug in your origin and destination, and it tells you exactly which train, which platform, and what time. Travel times were accurate to the minute, every single time.
We used a mix of individual tickets instead of the JR Pass (which has gotten expensive) and saved money. Smart EX for shinkansen, Klook for some routes, and bought the rest at station machines.
What It Actually Cost
For two adults and one child, 13 nights, excluding airfare:
| Category | Cost |
|---|---|
| Hotels | ~$3,100 |
| Trains & Transport | ~$1,200 |
| Activities | ~$620 |
| Food | ~$1,300 |
| Souvenirs | ~$400 |
| Total | ~$6,600 |
That’s roughly $3,300 per adult for two weeks in Japan during peak cherry blossom season. A guided tour for the same duration would run $5,000-8,000 per person and you’d see less.
The DIY Toolkit
Here’s exactly what we used to plan and book everything:
- Hotels: Expedia and Agoda (ryokan)
- Shinkansen: Smart EX app (Tokaido line) and Klook (Hokuriku line)
- Activities: Klook and direct booking (teamLab via DMM)
- Car rental: Toyota Rent-a-Car
- Navigation: Google Maps (offline maps downloaded for each city)
- Translation: Google Translate with offline Japanese
- Train schedules: Jorudan app
- Restaurant finding: Tabelog
What We’d Do Differently
- Shibuya on arrival night. We saved it for the end but the first-night energy is unbeatable.
- One more night in Shibu Onsen. One night at the ryokan felt rushed. Two would have been perfect.
- Book Shibuya Sky at sunset. We did a morning slot, which was fine, but sunset would’ve been spectacular.
- Pack lighter. We overpacked. Japan has coin laundry everywhere and you can buy anything you forgot at a convenience store.
The Bottom Line
You don’t need a tour guide to do Japan with kids. You need Google Maps, a few booking apps, and the willingness to figure things out as you go. The trains run on time. The people are incredibly kind. The food is extraordinary at every price point. And the cherry blossoms — if you time it right — will stop you in your tracks every single day.
Build your own trip. Make it weird. Make it yours.
Have questions about planning your own Japan family trip? Drop them in the comments below.
